ทำไมกรุงเทพฯจึงกำลังปรากฏโฉมเป็นนครหลวงแห่งอาหาร
Gaggan Photo: Alamy
บทความของ VOGUE นี้ แม้จะยกตัวอย่างภัตตาคารเพียง 6 แห่ง แต่ก็เป็นเสมือนเข็มทิศนำทางไปสู้ภัตตาคารและร้านอาหารระดับบนอื่นๆในกรุงเทพฯและส่วนอื่นของประเทศไทยด้วย
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นิตยสาร VOGUE ลงบทความ อธิบายเหตุผลว่า ทำไมกรุงเทพมหานครจึงสมควรจะได้ชื่อว่าเป็นเมืองหลวงแห่งอาหารที่สมควรได้รับการใส่ใจจากโลกอย่างจริงจังแล้ว
ที่กล่าวเช่นนี้ ก็ด้วยการพิจารณาบทพาดหัวข่าวของ VOGUE ที่เขียนว่า "ทำไมกรุงเทพจึงกำลังปรากฏตัวในฐานะเมืองหลวงแห่งวงการอาหาร" ซึ่งสามารถแปลแยกข้อความได้ดังนี้:
"emerging" แปลว่า "กำลังปรากฏตัวเป็นรูปเป็นร่างขึ้น" แสดงว่าก่อนหน้านี้ยังไม่ปรากฏชัดเจน แม้ว่าพ่อครัวใหญ่และรายการโทรทัศน์เกี่ยวกับอาหารดังๆของอังกฤษและอเมริกา และชาติอื่นๆได้ผ่านแวะมาชิมรสอาหารไทยและยกย่องกันมานานแล้ว ตลอดจนร้านอาหารไทยในประเทศต่างๆรอบโลกก็ได้พิสูจน์ฝีมือยืนยันวัฒนธรรมด้านโภชนาหารของไทยว่าเป็นหนึ่งในโลกเป็นที่เรื่องลือมานานแล้วก็ตาม "serious culinary capital" แปลว่า "เมืองหลวงแห่งโภชนาหารที่สมควรได้รับความสนใจอย่างจริงจัง" หมายความว่าเป็นเหมืองแห่งอาหารที่สำคัญเมืองหนึ่งของโลก แม้จะไม่มีคำว่า "โลก" หรือ "world" ก็ตาม แต่ความหมายระดับโลกสะท้อนชัดเจนจากความเป็นนิตยสารนานาขาติของ VOGUE นิตยสาร VOGUE เขียนรายละเอียด แนะนำร้านอาหารต่างๆในกรุงเทพ รวม 6 แห่ง มีทั้งภ้ตตาคารอาหารไทยโดยคนไทย และอาหารไทยสาขาจากอังกฤษซึ่งมีพ่อครัวเป็นชาวออสเตรเลีย อีกทั้งแนะนำภัตตาคารอาหาร อิตาเลียน เยอรมัน และญี่ปุ่น วิธีมองความเป็นเมืองหลวงโลกแห่งอาหารของ VOGUE ไม่ใช่ดูที่อาหารไทยเท่านั้น แต่ดูที่อาหารประจำชาติอื่นๆในโลกมีมาปรากฏตัวในกรุงเทพฯ มีคุณภาพระดับโลก ในเรื่องความเป็นอาหารประจำชาตินั้นๆ และสร้างความเป็นอาหารร่วมสมัยและทันสมัยเป็นสากล ดังนั้น ความหมายของการเป็นเมืองหลวงแห่งอาหารของโลก จึงหมายความว่าเป็นเมืองที่มีภัตตาคาร และร้านอาหารแบบต่างๆของนานาชาติในโลก รวมทั้งอาหารไทยเป็นส่วนหนึ่งด้วย โดยอาหารนานาชาตินั้นมีคูณภาพระดับโลก ที่ผู้มาเยือนกรุงเทพสามารถลิ้มรสได้โดยมาเพียงที่กรุงเทพฯโดยไม่ต้องไปถึงประเทศเจ้าของอาหารประจำชาตินั้นๆเลย |
MAY 10, 2017 3:44 AM
by PIP USHER
Think of Bangkok’s gastronomic scene and it’s usually the city’s array of slapdash food stalls that springs to mind. Huge pots ladling out steaming chicken broth, skewers of barbecued meat sold from a portable grill—Thailand's capital is deservedly famous for the devilishly cheap prices and authentic tastes found at such spots. Yet there’s a foodie’s paradise to be discovered that stretches far beyond the rickety plastic stools and exhaust fume–soaked ambience that most tourists associate with snacking on the city's sidewalks.
In recent years, Bangkok has emerged as a hub for fine dining establishments, boasting world-class Thai restaurants alongside innovative new additions that serve up anything from molecular Indian dishes to haute German cuisine. Further proof came when the Michelin Guide announced that Thailand will get its inaugural guide later this year. Speculation about which restaurants will receive recognition has already reached fever pitch—so, fellow epicureans, skedaddle east now and beat the crowds. Below are some of the finest dining spots to put on the itinerary:
Gaggan
Gaggan bills itself as progressive Indian fare, but this boundary-pushing restaurant—which scooped first place in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards for the third year running—is merely being modest. Helmed by Kolkata-born chef and founder Gaggan Anand, its menu takes traditional Indian flavors, adds decidedly modern molecular gastronomy techniques, and ends up with something entirely unexpected. Sign up for the an 25-course tasting menu and settle in for a long night of joyfully creative cuisine.
Issaya Siamese Club
Issaya Siamese Club is housed in a heritage two-story wooden villa, and its timelessness stands out among the flash-in-the-pan trendiness of many of Bangkok’s hot spots. But that’s not to say it’s dull. Jewel-colored walls, clashing prints, wooden ceiling fans, and antique furniture come together in a buoyant take on the colonial-inspired design seen in many older establishments across Asia. Food and drink are equally exuberant, an eye for detail and high-quality produce (some of which is grown in the chef’s herb garden outside) transform well-trod Thai dishes into exciting new creations.
Appia
In a city where cultural reserve often translates into subdued murmurs around the table, Appia’s lively dining room is a welcome relief. The Italian restaurant—which models itself on a Roman-style trattoria—serves up a short menu of salads, pastas, and meats that keeps the fancy tricks to a minimum. Instead, Italian chef Paolo Vitaletti focuses on rustic-style cooking with high-quality ingredients—just the kind of food you’d imagine your own nonna making. An excellent wine list, and tiramisu based on the chef’s family recipe, are added bonuses. A full stomach is no excuse to skip a course; as the Italians would say, l’appetito vien mangiando (the appetite comes while you’re eating).
Sühring
Sühring may have haute cuisine credentials, but the acclaimed German restaurant insists upon a down-to-earth dining experience. For starters, there’s the fact that twin chefs Mathias and Thomas Suring invite patrons into their own home, a 1970s villa set amid sprawling tropical gardens. And then there’s the food itself, a modern take on Central European recipes from their childhood showcased through eight-course or 12-course tasting menus. Don’t expect stodgy helpings of sauerkraut, schnitzel, or stollen, however—classic flavors are reinvented into contemporary dishes that are light, playful, and filled with fun.
Nahm
There was an uproar when Michelin-starred London restaurant Nahm opened its second outpost in Bangkok—what did Australian-born chef David Thompson know of Thai food? As it turned out, quite a lot; Nahm has gone on to establish itself as one of the city’s finest purveyors of Thai cuisine. Drawing upon traditional recipes and ancient cookbooks, Thompson’s cooking embraces the country’s sturdy flavors, with sweetness, sourness, and spice competing in its curries, stir-fries, and seafood dishes. Save space for the intriguing dessert list, like the Thai wafers with poached persimmon and duck egg noodles.
Sushi Masato
Bangkok’s sizable Japanese expat population has made its mark on Bangkok’s food scene, with ramen restaurants and okonomiyaki outposts as ubiquitous as the city’s 7-Elevens. But superstar chef Masato Shimizu, who rose to prominence after becoming the youngest chef in New York City to win a Michelin star, had loftier ambitions for his tiny sushi restaurant. The minimalist 20-seater space, which takes two sittings each night, operates on an omakase (chef’s selection) basis; for $115 a head, you’ll dine on approximately 20 exquisitely delicate pieces of nigiri, sashimi, and more. Like Sukiyabashi Jiro, the sushi restaurant star of the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Sushi Masato celebrates the craft of its food first and foremost. No fuss, no frills—just sushi at its finest.
VOGUE
by PIP USHER
Think of Bangkok’s gastronomic scene and it’s usually the city’s array of slapdash food stalls that springs to mind. Huge pots ladling out steaming chicken broth, skewers of barbecued meat sold from a portable grill—Thailand's capital is deservedly famous for the devilishly cheap prices and authentic tastes found at such spots. Yet there’s a foodie’s paradise to be discovered that stretches far beyond the rickety plastic stools and exhaust fume–soaked ambience that most tourists associate with snacking on the city's sidewalks.
In recent years, Bangkok has emerged as a hub for fine dining establishments, boasting world-class Thai restaurants alongside innovative new additions that serve up anything from molecular Indian dishes to haute German cuisine. Further proof came when the Michelin Guide announced that Thailand will get its inaugural guide later this year. Speculation about which restaurants will receive recognition has already reached fever pitch—so, fellow epicureans, skedaddle east now and beat the crowds. Below are some of the finest dining spots to put on the itinerary:
Gaggan
Gaggan bills itself as progressive Indian fare, but this boundary-pushing restaurant—which scooped first place in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards for the third year running—is merely being modest. Helmed by Kolkata-born chef and founder Gaggan Anand, its menu takes traditional Indian flavors, adds decidedly modern molecular gastronomy techniques, and ends up with something entirely unexpected. Sign up for the an 25-course tasting menu and settle in for a long night of joyfully creative cuisine.
Issaya Siamese Club
Issaya Siamese Club is housed in a heritage two-story wooden villa, and its timelessness stands out among the flash-in-the-pan trendiness of many of Bangkok’s hot spots. But that’s not to say it’s dull. Jewel-colored walls, clashing prints, wooden ceiling fans, and antique furniture come together in a buoyant take on the colonial-inspired design seen in many older establishments across Asia. Food and drink are equally exuberant, an eye for detail and high-quality produce (some of which is grown in the chef’s herb garden outside) transform well-trod Thai dishes into exciting new creations.
Appia
In a city where cultural reserve often translates into subdued murmurs around the table, Appia’s lively dining room is a welcome relief. The Italian restaurant—which models itself on a Roman-style trattoria—serves up a short menu of salads, pastas, and meats that keeps the fancy tricks to a minimum. Instead, Italian chef Paolo Vitaletti focuses on rustic-style cooking with high-quality ingredients—just the kind of food you’d imagine your own nonna making. An excellent wine list, and tiramisu based on the chef’s family recipe, are added bonuses. A full stomach is no excuse to skip a course; as the Italians would say, l’appetito vien mangiando (the appetite comes while you’re eating).
Sühring
Sühring may have haute cuisine credentials, but the acclaimed German restaurant insists upon a down-to-earth dining experience. For starters, there’s the fact that twin chefs Mathias and Thomas Suring invite patrons into their own home, a 1970s villa set amid sprawling tropical gardens. And then there’s the food itself, a modern take on Central European recipes from their childhood showcased through eight-course or 12-course tasting menus. Don’t expect stodgy helpings of sauerkraut, schnitzel, or stollen, however—classic flavors are reinvented into contemporary dishes that are light, playful, and filled with fun.
Nahm
There was an uproar when Michelin-starred London restaurant Nahm opened its second outpost in Bangkok—what did Australian-born chef David Thompson know of Thai food? As it turned out, quite a lot; Nahm has gone on to establish itself as one of the city’s finest purveyors of Thai cuisine. Drawing upon traditional recipes and ancient cookbooks, Thompson’s cooking embraces the country’s sturdy flavors, with sweetness, sourness, and spice competing in its curries, stir-fries, and seafood dishes. Save space for the intriguing dessert list, like the Thai wafers with poached persimmon and duck egg noodles.
Sushi Masato
Bangkok’s sizable Japanese expat population has made its mark on Bangkok’s food scene, with ramen restaurants and okonomiyaki outposts as ubiquitous as the city’s 7-Elevens. But superstar chef Masato Shimizu, who rose to prominence after becoming the youngest chef in New York City to win a Michelin star, had loftier ambitions for his tiny sushi restaurant. The minimalist 20-seater space, which takes two sittings each night, operates on an omakase (chef’s selection) basis; for $115 a head, you’ll dine on approximately 20 exquisitely delicate pieces of nigiri, sashimi, and more. Like Sukiyabashi Jiro, the sushi restaurant star of the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Sushi Masato celebrates the craft of its food first and foremost. No fuss, no frills—just sushi at its finest.
VOGUE